Tuesday, 10 November 2009


Hello all,
Now here is a dilemma subaru big end knock or faliure how much to re build a wrx engine

This is very common on subaru's
I am writing this to pass on my experience

I have a 2001 subaru wrx with full service history been done every 5000 miles some at 3000 miles by subaru main dealer and wondered how the hell i had big end faliure! at 68000miles

Now from my research i have found a few interesting facts from different people and subaru whilst on my search for new parts this is shocking!

Ok how much does it cost for an engine re-build ?

You wont get any change out of £3500.00 and thats just bottom end you are looking at £500 for a crank and there is two different types, rear thrust and centre thrust, centre thrust is generally post 2001 dont hold me to this.
£340 for genuine gasket set not including rocker cover gasket at £80 plus vat now thats not cheap
also big end bearings £59 set and main bearings at £89 and some one good enough to take it apart and re build it

You cannot re grind a subaru crank whatsoever

Do not let anyone tell you you can as the crank itself has ball bearings in and the grinding swarf will stay in the oil wells untill you fire it up and bang, this has happened !!!
i have heard stories of people that have spent £4500 on a build and its gone wrong!
be warned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now you think thats bad once the heads are off you will see between valve seats and spark plug hole will be hair line cracks this is very common on subarus where to go from here is your own choice.

you will need to change the oil pump and water pump as its all around the cambelt area and oil pump is blamed for subaru engine faliure

I will tell you what i have been told by a subaru engine builder take it as you wish
he told me that if you get the engine management light on it can sometimes lead to a misfire at high revs and his words its a common thing on subarus a duff or knackered sensor can take the engine with it.

This may seem daft but when mine went i had the engine management light on and split second after started knocking at bottom end apparently a misfire can send a wrong signal to spark plug and detonate at the wrong time causing lightning bolt force on con rod and tempoarily starving crankshaft of oil and bang

The cheapest way is to get a second hand engine from a breaker with warranty as some do.
with low mileage and do a swap unless you have a kings ransom in your purse and go for a no expence spared genuine subaru or cosworth build

however i would not suggest revving up to the red line or bouncing off the limiter 5600rpm is enough to preserve your engine and still go some as turbo starts to fade unless you have been mucking around with waste gate and bigger turbos

Thanks for reading sorry to go on but thought i would pass this on this is information based on my experience do not believe everything you read on the internet feel free to add any comments

Friday, 16 October 2009


A common fault on subaru impreza wrx dash board clock not working it stems from a resistor inside clock and here is my guide to show you how to do it yourself .

The way you have to look at it is that the thing is broken anyway and its worth a shot.

you will need

A soldering iron with fine tip

Multicore solder (fluxed)

Feeler gauges (you will see why)

Nerves of steel
Here goes,

First take out dash clock on dash put your fingers under hood and pull up from screen side

Its in tight a good tug will release it

Thats the back clips off now the front ones

put your fingers down left hand side and pull like your life depends on it. Its in tight so nerves of steel required, you wont break any clips (Trust me)

And pull

Thats one side done now pull like crazy on the other side its in hard..... be brave!

Now with surround out disconnect the wiring harness plug from clock

Now removing clock itself is tricky, get some feeler gauges and slide them in side shown in picture
This is in really tight and twist it so you are forcing gently the clock unit backwards away from the surround not up or down

this is in really tight be brave and be carefull not to lever in the front part of clock housing as this is the screen

once you get this side out the other side will come out using a bit of tugging bend the clip back using fingers and out it pops

Now seperate the face from the back do this on a table not in the car as the buttons will fall out. just move the tabs gently up these are brittle so be careful

see tabs just lift them gently and pull face off

see resistor pictured left R510

Now once inside you can see resistor pictured with ball point pen this is the one, use a fine tipped soldering iron and a dab of solder on the end contacts. It will look like nothing is wrong with it but if you wiggle it you will see which side is loose but i re did both as a precautionary measure.

Now pop it all back together and try it out

It worked for me

however i cant be held responsible for your own actions and damage caused be carefull and if in doubt ask a grown up for help and dont burn yourself soldering irons are hot!

Best of luck feel free to add your comments

Thursday, 15 October 2009

Hi welcome still in early stages (not forest) for scooby diy mods for less cash all free info my mods i have done myself and i will be telling you how to!

From brembo calipers from less than £20 for all four
Triple gauge pods for £15 or less
Turbo mods
Installing gauge pods and wiring boost, oil Etc